MUNDI · KARULA NATIONAL PARK

A sauna where time moves at its own pace.

The warmth of fire, the scent of smoke, the stillness of the forest.

Mundi’s smoke sauna is a place to slow down and spend time with the people close to you.

Book a smoke sauna session

THE SAUNA HAS ITS OWN RHYTHM

Smoke Sauna –
More Than Just a Sauna.

A smoke sauna is not simply another type of sauna. It is an ancient way of bathing that brings together fire, water, wood, smoke, and time. In Võromaa, the smoke sauna has been part of everyday life for centuries, and the tradition remains alive here today.

Mundi’s smoke sauna stands amid the forests of Karula National Park. Preparing the sauna takes approximately five to six hours. There is no electric lighting inside, and after dark, the sauna is enjoyed by candlelight.

The hosts prepare the sauna and explain how to use it, leaving each guest free to find their own pace. There is room here for both peaceful silence and good conversation.

The customs we follow at Mundi belong to our farm. Across Võromaa, sauna traditions vary from family to family.

We want to give you the place, the knowledge, and the time.
The sauna takes care of the rest.

Mundi savusanna imeh

YOUR GUIDE TO THE SMOKE SAUNA

Everything you need to know about the smoke sauna

01

What is a smoke sauna?

02

How does a smoke sauna work?

03

Smoke sauna vs regular sauna

04

The smoke sauna ritual

05

The history of the smoke sauna

06

Is a smoke sauna good for your health?

07

How to enjoy a smoke sauna?

08

Stories and traditions

09

Safety and care

10

FAQ

01 / What is a smoke sauna?

Ancient wisdom that lives on.

In Võro, a smoke sauna is called savvusann. Here at Mundi, we call ours Mundi savusann.

A smoke sauna is a wood-fired sauna without a chimney. During heating, smoke from the stove fills the sauna room, heating the stones, walls, and sauna benches.

Once the sauna is hot enough, the fire is allowed to burn out, the smoke is released, and the room is ventilated. Only then is the sauna ready for bathing.

This means that enjoying a smoke sauna does not involve sitting in a room filled with smoke. By the time the sauna is ready, the visible smoke has cleared, but its distinctive aroma, darkened walls, and gentle heat remain.

02 / How does a smoke sauna work?

A slow process. Deep warmth.

A smoke sauna cannot simply be switched on.

At Mundi, heating and preparing the sauna are the responsibility of the hosts. Guests do not add firewood or move embers or ashes in the firebox.

The fire is lit several hours before the sauna session. Hot smoke circulates through the room, heating the large mass of stones and the entire sauna. Throughout the heating process, the fire must be monitored, more wood added, and the temperature of the stones and the room carefully assessed.

Once the stones are hot enough, the sauna is left to rest and air out after heating.
The hot stones retain heat for a long time. When water is poured over them, it creates leil — the warm steam that rises from the stones. It is this stored heat that allows the sauna to be enjoyed even after the fire has gone out.

Heating a smoke sauna is a slow process. No two sauna sessions are ever quite the same — the experience is influenced by the weather, air temperature, firewood, and even the phases of the moon.

03 / Smoke sauna vs regular sauna

One fire. Two different saunas.

The biggest difference lies in how the sauna is heated.

In a conventional wood-fired sauna, smoke is directed outside through a chimney, and the sauna can often be used while the fire is still burning. A smoke sauna has no chimney, and during heating, the sauna room fills with smoke. This means that heating and bathing take place at different times.

The experience is different, too.
Over the years, the walls of a smoke sauna become darkened by smoke, and the room develops a distinctive aroma of wood and smoke. Much of the heat comes from the large mass of heated stones and the warmth stored throughout the sauna.

A smoke sauna is meant to be enjoyed without rushing. Taking the time to slow down and get into the right frame of mind is part of the experience.

04 / The smoke sauna ritual

Steam, a birch whisk, and your own rhythm.

There is no single ritual that everyone must follow in a traditional smoke sauna.

A sauna session usually begins at a relaxed pace. You enjoy the steam, sit or lie down and allow your body to warm up, use a sauna whisk, and step outside from time to time to cool down. Afterwards, you can return to the sauna.

Using a sauna whisk does not mean hitting yourself hard. The whisk is used to move warm air close to the skin and gently brush the body with branches and leaves. Sauna whisks are most often made from leafy birch branches.

There is nothing to achieve in the sauna, nor is there any need to endure the heat for as long as possible. What matters is listening to your body.

At Mundi, you can step outside to cool down between sauna sessions and, if you wish, take a dip in the natural pond.
When adding water to the hot stones, be considerate of everyone in the sauna.

Respecting others’ boundaries, privacy, and peace is an essential part of the entire experience.

05 / The history of the smoke sauna

A living heritage in Võromaa.

The interior of Mundi’s smoke sauna is featured in a 2005 segment of ERR’s programme “Eloline”, titled “What makes a Võromaa smoke sauna unique?”, featuring Kalle Eller. Watch the segment from ERR’s “Eloline”. This reference comes from the Estonian Folk Culture Centre’s heritage record.

The smoke sauna is one of the oldest forms of sauna.

In Estonia, the smoke sauna tradition has been particularly well preserved in Southern Estonia and Võromaa. In the past, the sauna was much more than a place to wash. People bathed and used sauna whisks there, but the sauna was also closely connected to family traditions, caring for one’s health, and important events in life.

The sauna held a special place on the farm.

In 2014, the smoke sauna tradition of Võromaa was inscribed on UNESCO’s Representative List of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.

UNESCO recognition is not simply about preserving an old type of sauna building. The heritage encompasses an entire smoke sauna culture: the skills of building and heating a sauna, making sauna whisks, traditional bathing customs, and passing this knowledge on to future generations.

At Mundi, the smoke sauna is still a working sauna, not a decorative historical exhibit. A fire is lit, the stones are heated, and the sauna is used much as it has been in this region for generations.

06 / Is a smoke sauna good for your health?

Warmth and well-being.

The warmth of a sauna helps you relax, and for many people, it is a place to rest and unwind. The health effects of sauna bathing have also been studied scientifically, but a smoke sauna should not be considered a form of medical treatment.

What matters most is listening to your body and paying attention to how you feel.

There is no need to compete over how much heat you can tolerate or how long you can stay in the sauna. Take breaks to cool down and drink plenty of water. Combining alcohol with intense sauna heat is not recommended.

If you have a serious heart condition or another significant health issue, or if your doctor has advised you to avoid heat, follow your doctor’s guidance before using the sauna.

07 / How to enjoy a smoke sauna

Your first sauna experience.

At Mundi, cool water is provided in a container for washing, while hot water is kept in a pot on the sauna stove. Use a washbasin to mix the water to a comfortable temperature.

When pouring water onto the hot stones to create steam, always use hot water only. Handle hot water with care.

Please use only natural washing products. However, shampoo is not always necessary in the sauna. Sweating, rinsing with warm water, and other natural methods may be enough to leave you feeling clean and refreshed.

The dark walls of a smoke sauna are completely natural. Because of the soot, avoid leaning against the walls or touching the ceiling, as this may stain your skin or sauna towel. When using a sauna whisk, make sure it does not touch the walls or ceiling.

08 / Stories and traditions

Stories that live on.

There is much more to the smoke sauna than washing and sweating in the heat. In traditional folklore, the sauna was a special place — somewhere between the everyday world and something deeper.

Children were born in the sauna, the sick were cared for, the deceased were washed, and people prepared for important events in life. Cleanliness in the sauna meant more than simply keeping the body clean. The sauna was a place with its own rules and meaning, an inseparable part of the cycle of life.

The sauna was also associated with spirits, souls, and supernatural beings. People believed that every sauna had its own spirit, or sauna guardian, and that it should be treated with respect. Loud noise, swearing, discussing everyday matters on the sauna benches, and arguing were — and still are — considered inappropriate.

According to many traditional stories, the sauna no longer belonged solely to people late at night. After the living had finished bathing, the spirits of ancestors or other unseen visitors might enter. For this reason, people sometimes left water, a sauna whisk, or a little steam for them.

Sauna stories and customs vary from region to region and have changed over the centuries. They do not need to be taken literally. Instead, they reveal just how special the sauna was in the worldview of our ancestors. Fire and water, body and spirit.

ANCIENT SAUNA TRADITIONS

How the sauna saved the monks of Kärkna

One colourful sauna story is connected to the monks of Kärkna Monastery and was recorded as early as the beginning of the 17th century in the chronicle of the Livonian historian Dionysius Fabricius.

According to tradition, the Bishop of Tartu was frequently dissatisfied with the monks of Kärkna. They were accused of living too comfortably, and eventually the complaints reached the Pope in Rome. The Pope decided to investigate and sent an envoy from Italy to Kärkna Monastery to see how the monks actually lived.

The monks welcomed their distant guest warmly. On Saturday, they heated the sauna to a very high temperature and invited the papal envoy to join them.

Inside the sauna, the monks poured water onto the hot stones, used sauna whisks, and cooled their bodies with cold water. The visitor from Italy was completely unfamiliar with such practices. To him, what was happening looked nothing like a pleasant sauna experience, but rather an extraordinarily harsh form of self-mortification.

When the heat and steam became unbearable, he fled the sauna, crying out:

“Proh Deum!” – “For God’s sake!”

The envoy was deeply shaken by what he had witnessed. In his eyes, the monks of Kärkna lived an incredibly austere life, voluntarily subjecting their bodies to hardships that others could scarcely endure.

Upon returning to Rome, he reported to the Pope how strictly the monks of Kärkna lived. Instead of punishing them, the Pope spoke on their behalf to the Bishop of Tartu and requested that the monastery’s income be increased.

And so the old tale tells how an entirely ordinary local sauna session appeared to a visitor from southern Europe as a terrifying act of self-punishment – and ultimately saved the reputation of the monks of Kärkna.

Fabricius himself suggests that this was a story told about Kärkna Monastery. It should therefore not be regarded as a literally verified historical event. Nevertheless, it offers a valuable early written glimpse into the region’s sauna culture: even centuries ago, hot sauna stones, pouring water to create steam, using sauna whisks, and cooling down with cold water were all part of the experience.

Source: Dionysius Fabricius, Livonicae historiae compendiosa series (“A Brief Overview of Livonian History”), early 17th century. The 1795 edition of Fabricius’s chronicle is preserved in the University of Tartu’s digital collection. The traditional story of the monks of Kärkna has also been discussed by historian Sulev Vahtre, who highlights its origins in folklore.

09 / Safety and care

A peaceful sauna experience begins with care.

Mundi’s sauna guidelines are an essential part of every visit. Open flames, hot surfaces, water, and dim lighting all require care and attention.

Come sober.

Do not enter the smoke sauna under the influence of alcohol or other intoxicating substances. Heat can affect how you feel and reduce your ability to recognise potential dangers.

Keep children safe.

Mundi’s smoke sauna is generally not suitable for young children who are unfamiliar with sauna bathing. Children’s participation must be discussed with the hosts in advance. A responsible adult must remain present and attentive at all times, both in the sauna and near the water.

Be mindful of candles.

Never leave candles unattended. Keep textiles and other flammable materials away from open flames. Whenever candles are burning in the sauna, an adult must remain present. Extinguish all candles before leaving the sauna.

Heating the sauna is the hosts’ responsibility.

During your sauna session, do not add firewood, touch the stove, or disturb the embers or ashes. The stove, stones, and surrounding surfaces may be extremely hot.

Listen to your body.

Choose the pace and length of your sauna session according to how you feel. If you become uncomfortable, step out of the heat, rest, and let your companion or the hosts know. Take breaks and drink water. Enjoying the steam is not an endurance competition.

Take care around water and in dim lighting.

Move carefully, as floors and steps may be wet and slippery. Check the temperature of the washing water and mix in cooler water if needed. Avoid splashing hot water. Before entering the pond, consider the water temperature, depth, and your swimming ability. Do not enter the water alone if you feel uncertain. Taking a dip in the pond is entirely optional; you can also cool down outdoors.

If you are unsure about how to use something or what to do in a particular situation, please ask the hosts for guidance before proceeding.

10 / FAQ

Frequently asked questions.

Is there smoke in the smoke sauna while bathing?

No. During heating, the sauna fills with smoke, but before anyone enters, the fire is allowed to burn out, the smoke is released, and the room is ventilated.

Does a smoke sauna have a strong smoky smell?

A smoke sauna has its own distinctive scent. It is part of the traditional smoke sauna experience.

Will I get covered in soot?

Usually not. However, the walls and ceiling are covered in soot, so avoid leaning against them. When using a sauna whisk, make sure it touches only your body, not the sooty walls or ceiling.

How hot is a smoke sauna?

The temperature can vary. The smoke sauna experience is not defined by the thermometer alone, but by the combined warmth of the hot stones, steam, and the entire room.

How long can I stay in the sauna?

There is no fixed time limit. Stay as long as you feel comfortable, and cool down occasionally with cool water or by sitting outside or in the sauna’s changing room.

Is there electric lighting in the smoke sauna?

There is no electric lighting in the Mundi smoke sauna. When it is dark outside, the sauna is lit by candlelight.

How long does it take to prepare the smoke sauna?

Heating and preparing the Mundi smoke sauna takes approximately 5–6 hours. We therefore ask you to let us know in advance if you would like to use the sauna.

Is a smoke sauna suitable for someone who has never tried one before?

Yes. No previous experience or knowledge is usually needed. Before you enter, we explain how to use our smoke sauna and what to keep in mind.

Do I have to use a sauna whisk?

No. Using a sauna whisk is a traditional part of sauna culture, but you can also enjoy the smoke sauna without one.

Can I cool down after the sauna?

Yes. At Mundi, you can cool down outside between sauna sessions and, if you wish, take a dip or go for a swim. In winter, you can also rub yourself with snow.

Is participating in the ritual or swimming mandatory?

No. Follow the sauna and safety guidelines and go at your own pace. Using a sauna whisk and swimming in the pond are optional; you can also cool down in the fresh air.

Is a smoke sauna suitable for young children?

Generally not for young children who are not accustomed to saunas. A child’s participation must be discussed with the hosts in advance. A responsible adult must supervise the child at all times, both in the sauna and near the water.

What should I bring?

A towel, drinking water, and suitable footwear for walking outdoors. We will agree on the remaining details, including your arrival and sauna time, before your visit.

Is the Mundi sauna building on the UNESCO list?

The Võromaa smoke sauna tradition is inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. This recognition honours the community’s knowledge, skills, and customs, rather than the Mundi sauna as an individual building.

What is the difference between a smoke sauna and a steam room?

In a smoke sauna, a wood fire heats the sauna stones and the room. The smoke is released before bathing, and steam is created by pouring water onto the hot stones. In a steam room, the space is filled with hot water vapour, usually produced by a steam generator. Steam is also part of the smoke sauna experience, but that does not make a smoke sauna a steam room.

Is there smoke in the smoke sauna while bathing?

No. During heating, the sauna fills with smoke, but before anyone enters, the fire is allowed to burn out, the smoke is released, and the room is ventilated.

Does a smoke sauna have a strong smoky smell?

A smoke sauna has its own distinctive scent. It is part of the traditional smoke sauna experience.

Will I get covered in soot?

Usually not. However, the walls and ceiling are covered in soot, so avoid leaning against them. When using a sauna whisk, make sure it touches only your body, not the sooty walls or ceiling.

How hot is a smoke sauna?

The temperature can vary. The smoke sauna experience is not defined by the thermometer alone, but by the combined warmth of the hot stones, steam, and the entire room.

How long can I stay in the sauna?

There is no fixed time limit. Stay as long as you feel comfortable, and cool down occasionally with cool water or by sitting outside or in the sauna’s changing room.

Is there electric lighting in the smoke sauna?

There is no electric lighting in the Mundi smoke sauna. When it is dark outside, the sauna is lit by candlelight.

How long does it take to prepare the smoke sauna?

Heating and preparing the Mundi smoke sauna takes approximately 5–6 hours. We therefore ask you to let us know in advance if you would like to use the sauna.

Is a smoke sauna suitable for someone who has never tried one before?

Yes. No previous experience or knowledge is usually needed. Before you enter, we explain how to use our smoke sauna and what to keep in mind.

Do I have to use a sauna whisk?

No. Using a sauna whisk is a traditional part of sauna culture, but you can also enjoy the smoke sauna without one.

Can I cool down after the sauna?

Yes. At Mundi, you can cool down outside between sauna sessions and, if you wish, take a dip or go for a swim. In winter, you can also rub yourself with snow.

Is participating in the ritual or swimming mandatory?

No. Follow the sauna and safety guidelines and go at your own pace. Using a sauna whisk and swimming in the pond are optional; you can also cool down in the fresh air.

Is a smoke sauna suitable for young children?

Generally not for young children who are not accustomed to saunas. A child’s participation must be discussed with the hosts in advance. A responsible adult must supervise the child at all times, both in the sauna and near the water.

What should I bring?

A towel, drinking water, and suitable footwear for walking outdoors. We will agree on the remaining details, including your arrival and sauna time, before your visit.

Is the Mundi sauna building on the UNESCO list?

The Võromaa smoke sauna tradition is inscribed on UNESCO’s Intangible Cultural Heritage list. This recognition honours the community’s knowledge, skills, and customs, rather than the Mundi sauna as an individual building.

What is the difference between a smoke sauna and a steam room?

In a smoke sauna, a wood fire heats the sauna stones and the room. The smoke is released before bathing, and steam is created by pouring water onto the hot stones. In a steam room, the space is filled with hot water vapour, usually produced by a steam generator. Steam is also part of the smoke sauna experience, but that does not make a smoke sauna a steam room.

FURTHER READING

The sources behind the stories.

Mundi’s descriptions and house guidelines come directly from the hosts.
For the wider cultural heritage, we draw on the following sources.

01 / INTERNATIONAL RECOGNITION

UNESCO ↗

Smoke sauna tradition in Võromaa. Inscribed on the UNESCO list in 2014.

02 / ESTONIAN HERITAGE RECORD

Estonian Folk Culture Centre ↗

Smoke sauna tradition in Old Võromaa. Kati Taal and Külli Eichenbaum. Also includes an archival reference to Mundi’s sauna.

03 / THE ESSENCE OF THE SAUNA

Savvusann.ee ↗

Võromaa smoke sauna heritage website: information about the smoke sauna and its cultural significance. Võro Selts VKKF (Võro Language and Culture Foundation).

04 / HISTORY

Saunas through the ages ↗

The history of smoke saunas in Estonia. An overview based on the research of Tamara Habicht.

05 / HEATING THE SAUNA

The art of heating a sauna ↗

About heating a smoke sauna. Every sauna needs someone who knows it well and understands how to heat it properly.

06 / SAUNA BATHING

A sauna visitor’s guide ↗

Using a smoke sauna and traditional sauna customs. At Mundi, we follow the house guidelines provided on this website.

07 / KÄRKNA FOLKLORE

Fabricius’s Chronicle ↗

Sulev Vahtre, “Dionysius Fabricius’s Chronicle of Livonia”. Ajalooline Ajakiri, 2007, 1, pp. 3–21; the sauna story on p. 13.

08 / RESEARCH

Books & research ↗

Savvusann.ee provides links to the book and other research.

09 / Books

Mi uma Savvusann ↗

Võro Selts VKKF, 2012. Information about Mundi smoke sauna on pp. 64–65.

10 / FILM AND SAUNA HERITAGE

Savvusanna sõsarad ↗

Anna Hints’s documentary film (2023) about women and the stories they share in the smoke sauna.

Copyright: © 2023 Alexandra Film, Kepler22 Productions, Ursus Parvus

11 / MUNDI SAUNA IN THE ARCHIVES

Eloline ↗

Excerpt from an ERR programme (2005): “What makes the Võromaa smoke sauna unique?” Kalle Eller introduces the interior of the Mundi smoke sauna. Copyright: ERR.

EXPERIENCE AN AUTHENTIC SMOKE SAUNA

Come into the warmth.

A private sauna experience surrounded by the natural beauty of Karula.
Time for you and your loved ones.

Depending on the season, we can also offer overnight accommodation, dinner, or breakfast for sauna guests upon request. All details are agreed upon before your visit.

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